Travel Stories

No adventure trip in Colombia would be complete without sampling one of the country's classic dishes! Warm, rich, and comforting, ajiaco (ah-hee-ah-co) is all of these things and more. Known as one of the signature dishes of Colombia, this chicken and potato soup likely hails from Bogotá, with the Andean highlands providing optimal potato growing conditions, and the Magdalena river feeding the "Páramo de Las Papas" (Highlands of the Potato). It was here that Spanish explorers first discovered the potato in 1537, and introduced it to Europe around 1570.

The magic of Andean potatoes

Ajiaco is no ordinary potato soup! While recipes are slightly different in each region, ajiaco is typically made with three varieties of potatoes: papas criollas (a small yellow potato and the main component), papas pastusas (similar in color and texture to a russet potato), and papas sabaneras (a red potato). You can substitute yukon gold, russet, and red potatoes for an Ajiaco recipe in the United States, but the flavor of the Andean potatoes is distinct; you'll get close, but it won't be as authentic. For the real thing, you'll just have to take a trip to Colombia!

Guascas: Ajiaco's unique flavor

What gives this hearty soup it's exceptional flavor is an herb called guascas (scientific name: Galinsoga parviflora). This herb is common to many countries in South America and has a flavor described as similar to artichokes, but definitely unique. It can be eaten raw in salads and in green juices, or cooked in a variety of ways. Guascas, along with corn-on-the-cob and homemade chicken stock, round out the hearty, sumptuous flavors of Ajiaco.

Delighting taste buds across Colombia

You can find ajiaco just about anywhere in Bogotá, from street vendors, to shopping malls, and the finest restaurants. It is frequently served with a side of rice, fresh slices of avocado, a heavy cream sauce with a yogurt-like consistency, and capers. This is comfort food – Colombian style. Once you've tried ajiaco, you'll be looking for ways to experience it again and again.

Although it won't be quite authentic, here is a basic recipe to try ajiaco at home. You are sure to be delighted with the heartiness and flavor.

Ajiaco (serves 6-8)

Ingredients:

• 3 chicken breasts, skin removed
• 12 cups water
• 3 ears fresh corn, cut in half
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• pepper to taste
• 2 chicken bouillon cubes
• 3 scallions
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 3 tablespoon chopped cilantro
• 2 cups papas criollas (or small yukon gold), whole or halved
• 3 medium papas pastusas (or russet), peeled and sliced
• 3 medium papas sabaneras (or red potatoes), peeled and sliced
• 1/3 cup guascas (found in specialty Latin stores; if you can't find it you can try a mix of thyme and oregano)
• 1 cup heavy cream for serving
• 1 cup capers for serving
• sliced avocado for serving
• white Rice for serving

Directions

1. In a large pot, place the chicken, corn, chicken bouillon, cilantro, scallions, garlic, salt and pepper. Add the water and bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium and cook for about 35 to 40 minutes, until chicken is cooked and tender. Remove the chicken and set aside.
2. Continue cooking the corn for 30 more minutes. Discard scallions and add red potatoes, white potatoes, and the guascas. Cook for 30 more minutes.
3. Uncover, add the yellow potatoes and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, season with salt and pepper.
4. Cut the chicken meat into small pieces and return to the pot. Serve the ajiaco hot with capers, heavy cream, avocado, and rice on the side.

Uncharted Earth's Climbing in the Bogotá Countryside tour and day tours from Bogota offer perfect opportunities to sample local cuisine, including ajiaco. Experience the beauty and flavors of Colombia for yourself!